Kakadu: rock art, crocodiles and the last of the light

The walk at Ubirr really stayed with us. Passing the rock art and shelters gave us a sense of how people had lived here for thousands of years. Then we climbed up through the rocks and watched the sun set over the vast grasslands.

From the lookout, the view opens across the Nadab floodplain. Down among the shelters, the paintings draw your attention to individual figures and details in the rock; up above, it is the scale of the country that holds you there.

The fishing crowd at Cahills Crossing

There were more than 30 crocodiles at Cahills Crossing. Shan spotted them milling around, then, exactly as the tide turned and the river changed direction, they lined up ready for barramundi. The fish were facing a fairly organised reception committee.

Our favourite detail was the way the crocs spread their tiny arms and legs out wide to hold themselves steady in the current while waiting for a fish. For animals with so much presence, those little limbs were surprisingly endearing.

Rock art at Burrungkuy

At Burrungkuy (Nourlangie), we visited the Anbangbang rock-art gallery. Some of its best-known paintings were made by Nayombolmi, also known as Barramundi Charlie, as part of a continuing tradition of painting on Country. Knowing that adds something to standing in front of them: this is a place where people continued to paint, tell stories and pass on knowledge.

Sunrise on Yellow Water

The sunrise cruise on Yellow Water Billabong was very special. There were beautiful reflections, crocodiles and so many different birds. The comb-crested jacanas were a particular favourite, stepping across the lily pads on those enormous toes.

Between the soft light on the water and all that life around it, there was plenty to watch. It was one of the highlights of our time in Kakadu.

Last light at Gunlom

That evening we hiked up to the natural infinity pool at Gunlom and watched the sunset together. After a morning looking out across the billabong, we finished the day in the water with a view over the country below.

Yellow Water at sunrise and Gunlom at sunset: two very different ways to enjoy the water, and both have stayed with us.